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Startside

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Snøhettatraversen

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Hovedmeny

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Vandring og Toppturer

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Statistikk

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Snøhettatraversen
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Skrevet av Even Lillemo-Thorud
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søndag 04. september 2005

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Snøhettatraversen er en klatreklassiker i Norge. Traversen rundt "hesteskoen" på Snøhetta byr på utfordrende klatring og luftige passasjer. Denne dagen var vi til en forandring svært heldige med været.. Litt is og snø skapte litt vanskelige forhold. Etter 12 timer var vi tilbake ved bilen like nedenfor Snøheim.

Etter avreise fra Trondheim i 7 tiden var vi klare til å gå litt over klokken 1000. Det var godt med biler ved parkeringen ved inngangen til Dovrefjell nasjonalpark. Det var ikke bare oss som ville utnytte denne fine septemberdagen i fjellet. Været var strålende. Skyfri himmel.

Vi la avgårde i retning Stortoppen. Opp dit tok det ca. 2 timer. På toppen var det folksomt, så vi bare fortsatte i retning Midttoppen. Det lå et lite lag med nysnø og is som gjorde forholdene litt vanskelige. Dette gjorde oss litt bekymret. Hvis føret ikke bedret seg ville klatreturen kanskje bli mer utfordrende enn vi ville like.

På Midttoppen stoppet vi for å ta en rask matbit. Ned til skaret mot Hettpiggen var det lett klyving. Klatringen begynte ca

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. 15 meter bortenfor skaret. Are ledet med stålpsyke oppover en renne. Grei klatring, men noen partier som krevde større innsats. Det er ikke så lett å klatre med stive fjellstøvler og sekk på ryggen. Første standplass ble lagt på en utsatt hylle på nordeggen til Hettpiggen.

Are forsatte og lede på den andre taulengden. Greiere klatring her, og etter hvert kunne vi bare spasere opp de siste meterne til toppen av Hettpiggen (2261 moh) . Den første delen av traversen var unnagjort.

Fra Hettpiggen bar det videre i retning av Vesttoppens fine profil. Lett klyving ned mot et sva-parti som med rette kalles "plata". Herfra gjorde vi en 20 meters rapell ned til skaret mellom de to toppene.

Klatringen opp mot Vesttoppen begynte 40 meter bortenfor skaret . Herfra ledet Ola oppover den første taulengden, og han viste den samme stålpsyken som Are ved å tråkke skikkelig til opp cruxet ca. halvveis på taulengden. Standplass ble lagt på en meget utsatt hylle like nedenfor et sva-parti. Are ledet videre og han måtte først åle seg igjennom en trang passasje før han kom til det vanskelige sva-partiet. Klatringen til Are fortonet seg nå som en thriller for oss fire som stod på standplass . Heldigvis kom Are seg velberget over svaet og fikk satt en ny standplass noen meter lenger oppe.Fra standplassen var en kort spasertur opp til den siste korte taulengden over et lite utoverheng før vi kunne stå på traversens endepunkt Vesttoppen (2251 moh).
På Vesttoppen bød Bård på eksotisk urtesprit som ble tatt svært godt i mot.

Vi hadde brukt godt med tid, og nå begynte mørket å komme. Klokka viste halv ni. I skumringen gikk vi
nedover igjen med kurs for Snøheim. Etter effektiv gange var vi tilbake ved bilen ti over ti. 12 timer på tur.

Traversen kan gåes begge veier. Den vanligste, men vanskeligste veien er fra Stortoppen og over til Vesttoppen.

Klatrefører:

Klatrefører for traversen

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< Forrige

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Norge 2000 meter

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Oversiktside over ifriluft.net sine turbeskrivelser til Norges fjelltopper over 2000 meter

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