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ifriluft.net - Dagbok nr 7: Refuge du L'Aig du Gouter 3800 moh

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Startside arrow Ekspedisjoner arrow Mont Blanc 07 arrow Dagbok nr 7: Refuge du L'Aig du Gouter 3800 moh

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Dagbok nr 7: Refuge du L'Aig du Gouter 3800 moh
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Skriv ut E-post

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Skrevet av Even Lillemo-Thorud
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onsdag 27. juni 2007

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Refuge de Gouter på 3800 moh ble det siste stoppet før toppstøtet. Kryssingen av ruta sitt vanskeligste punkt, Grand Couloir gikk veldig greit. Gode snøforhold gjorde passeringen av den utsatte renna grei. Ryggen videre oppover fjellsiden ble forsert i rolig tempo. På kvelden lettet det og vi stod og smeltet snø på 3800 moh, over skydekket og med stor optimisme foran nattens og påfølgende dags toppstøt mot toppen av Vest-Europa, Mont Blanc.
Onsdag var det dags for den mest teknisk krevende etappen på hele turen. Etappen fra Tette Rousse til Refuge de Gouter innebar kryssing av den steinsprang utsatte Grand Couloir og bratt klyving videre oppover fjellsiden. Klyvingen foregår på en rygg hvor det på de bratteste partiene er festet wire for å lette oppstigningen. Refuge de Gouter ligger på rundt 3800 moh, så det ble en stigning på drøye 600 høydemetre. Været var skiftende, men av og til så vi den imponerende nordveggen på Aig du Bionassay . Kryssingen av Grand Couloir gikk veldig greit. Gode snøforhold og ekstra lange slynger gjorde at vi ikke fikk noen heftelser med sikringen i den oppspente wireren.


Trond krysser Grand Couloir i lett tåke. Legg merke til den lange slynga som er festet til den oppspente wireren.

Videre bar det usikret opp langs et klyveparti der det var spent opp et antall wire

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. Vi vurderte at usikret holdt i og med at både tak og snøforholdene var gode. Ryggen videre ble kløvet i et rolig men jevnt tempo. Det ble kun en pause på veien opp. Formen føltes veldig bra . Det siste stykket opp til hytta brattnet det til, men flere wire hjalp oss godt opp dette partiet. Etter 2,5 time stod vi på Refuge de Gouter, 3800 moh. Den siste høyden før toppstøtet som skulle gjennomføres påfølgende natt og dag.

Vi hadde kun tatt med oss minimalt med utstyr oppover . Vi bar kun med oss dagstursekker på rundt 45 liter. Hytta på Aig de Gouter har 120 liggeplasser, men er serdeles trang og populær. "Alle" ligger der før toppstøtet langs normalruta. Det vanlige er å gå rett opp hit fra 1800 moh, eller hvis toger går, fra 2300 moh ved Nid d'Aigle. Vi hadde kun med vindsekk som "sovepose" og et liggeunderlag hver. Vi var kort sagt nesten helt avhengige av å få soveplass. Dette fikk vi ikke med en gang, men vi var i hvert fall sikret en plass på gulvet. Senere på kvelden fikk vi heldigvis noen sengeplasser i anekset, Vi fikk 4 senger. En for lite før 5 stykker, men det ble løst ved at Marius, Ole og undertegnede delte en dobbelseng. Trangt, men bedre enn å ligge på gulvet inne i hovedhytta. Det kom uansett ikke til å bli mange timene på øyet før vekkerklokka skulle ringe kl 0100 neste dag. Vi planla start kl. 0200. Full av spenning la vi oss ned for litt hvile. Ingen kunne helt sikkert vite hva morgendagen ville bringe..


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< Forrige   Neste >

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Mont Blanc


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Litt fakta og tall:



Høyde: 4808 moh (høyeste i vest-europa)

Førstebestigning: 8. august 1786 av Jacques Balmat og Michel Paccard.

Vanligste rute til topps: "Voie Royale" (The Voie des Cristalliers) (ikke teknisk rute)

Vår rute: "Voie Royale" (The Voie des Cristalliers)

Mer fakta:

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