ifriluft.net - Dagbok nr 6: Rekognosering til Grand Couloir

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Mont Blanc 07

Dagbok nr 6: Rekognosering til Grand Couloir

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Dagbok nr 6: Rekognosering til Grand Couloir
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Skrevet av Even Lillemo-Thorud
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tirsdag 26. juni 2007

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Hviledag på Tette Rousse med en kort "inspiseringstur" til Grand Couloir for å sjekke forholdene. Alle fortsatt i fin form. Når vi kom ned igjen fra Couloir'en hadde ekspedisjonen vokst i størrelse. Ole Magnus hadde kommet opp fra la Chalette i løpet av dagen. Vi var nå 5 stykker som lå og samlet litt høyde før videre forflytting opp til Refuge de Gouter på 3800 moh.

Tirsdag ble en hviledag naturlig nok. I og med at det ikke er noen naturlige teltplasser mellom Tette Rousse på ca . 3200 moh. og Aig du Gouter som ligger på 3800 moh. valgte vi å tilbringe to netter for å "samle" høyde

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. Regelen er 300 høydemetre per dag. Hviledagen ble brukt til å gå opp for å inspisere passeringen av Grand Couloir. Sola stakk også fram i morgentimene. Vi hadde dermed fri sikt til både Aig du Gouter og Aig de Bionnassay. Fantastiske omgivelser. Den hvite nysnøen skapte et helt spesielt lys og stemning.

Grand Couloir, renna midt i bildet med 3 personer som krysser på tvers. Aiguille du Gouter sees lengst opp.

"Inspiseringen" ble ekstra interessant når en kar fra Litauen klarte å bli hengende fast midt i renna (Couloir). Han hadde altfor kort tauslynge festet til wireren som er spent over. Dette førte til at han ble dratt opp fra snøen og ble hengende å dingle en meter oppe i lufta. Etter hvert fikk turkameraten festet et tau i selen hans slik at vi fikk dratt han inn. Dimitri var dermed reddet. Dette ble dermed en nyttig erfaring foran morgendagens kryssing og forflytting opp til Refuge de Gouter. Grand Couloir er nemlig det mest utsatte på normalveien opp til toppen av Mont Blanc. Renna er svært utsatt for farlige steinsprang som kommer i stor fart ned mot kryssingspunktet. Steinsprang er antagelig mer vanlig senere på sesongen da temperaturen blir høyere og det er mindre snø i den bratte fjellsiden. Vi opplevde i hvertfall ikke steinsprang som noen stor trussel på vår tur opp og ned fra Refuge de Gouter.

Etter dette gikk vi ned igjen for å prøvesette snøanker og snøbolter. Dette gikk heller dårlig da snøen hadde serdeles dårlig hold . Vi får håpe vi ikke får bruk for disse i morgen. Det ble en lang ettermiddag og kveld med flere omganger med "President".

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< Forrige		Neste >

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Mont Blanc

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Litt fakta og tall:

Høyde: 4808 moh (høyeste i vest-europa)

Førstebestigning: 8. august 1786 av Jacques Balmat og Michel Paccard.

Vanligste rute til topps: "Voie Royale" (The Voie des Cristalliers) (ikke teknisk rute)

Vår rute: "Voie Royale" (The Voie des Cristalliers)

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