ifriluft.net - Lofoten

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Lofoten
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Skrevet av Martin Skrove
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onsdag 23. august 2006

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Lofoten kan by på veldig fin klatring om man har været med seg. Vi var så heldig å få fire dager med oppholds pluss en panser dag! Med fem dager til rådighet besøkte vi kjente steder som Paradis, Svolværgeita, Gandalf-veggen, presten svaet, sjø svaet samt klatre-kafè`n i Henningsvær. Fjellet i lofoten er mange steder veldig fast og fint, det som overasket oss var den enormt gode friksjonen. Fingerspissene samt sko-tuppene fikk kjørt seg godt.

Vår tur til Lofoten startet med en dag i Paradis

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. Dette stedet ligger ved Kalle ca . 15 km fra Svolvær. En idyllisk plett under fjellet Vågåkall`n like ved sjøen. Her finner man en megde både lette og mer krevende en taulengders naturlige linjer. Fin start på en klatreferie. De neste dagene ble forbeholdt Gandalf-veggen som ligger like ved Henningsvær. Her ligger ca. 10 ruter med grad fra 5- til 8-. Rutene gås på 2-3 taulengder. Den 3. dagen var planen Presten, en av de virkelig store klassikerne i Lofoten . Noen drypp på morgen kvisten og litt tunge skyer i horisonten la derimot en demper på dette støtet. I stedet ble det en tur til Bare Blåbær. Svolværgeita ble besteget i panservær, hoppet gikk greit og vi fikk tatt de obligatoriske bildene i svevet mellom geitas horn.

Bildet til høyre viser nedover 3.taulengde på Bare Blåbær. En fin 5- rute som har noen nydelige riss i fast fjell . Lettsikret rute som ikke er særlig bratt.

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Norge 2000 meter

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