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ifriluft.net - Castor (4228 moh)

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Statistikk

Brukere: 75
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Castor (4228 moh)
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Skriv ut E-post

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Skrevet av Marius Røed Hanssen
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lørdag 22. juli 2006

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I tur-rusen etter Breithorn valgte vi å droppe et løp i Sveitsisk Orienteering Week for å ta en litt lengre og tøffere topptur, og Castor (4228) ble valgt som mål for turen. Det innebar en 5 km lang brekryssing på 4000 meters høyde, samt lett isklatring helt oppunder toppen - med andre ord en artig utfordring for oss som ikke hadde klatret noe særlig is før.
Jon Birger, Linn, Ragnar og undertegnede tok nok en gang første kabelbane til Klein Matterhorn, og var kjappe til å binde oss inn og legge av gårde. Det var tidlig på morgenen, riktignok ikke i alpesammenheng, men snøen var fremdeles god og hard på breen og snøbroene holdt godt. Da vi bikket kanten på platået mellom Klein Matterhorn og Breithorn, så vi ned på et fantastisk brelandskap, med store sprekker og brefall som delte opp det hvite teppet av snø . Langt borte så vi Castor som tronet majestetisk bak Pollux, sin mindre tvillingbror.


På vei til Castor, under en topp på Breithornryggen [Fullversjon]

Det var viktig å være effektive på denne turen, ettersom snøbroene ville bli svekket utover dagen. Turen var beregnet til å ta nærmere åtte timer, og siste kabelbane gikk ned klokka fem - altså hadde vi ingen tid å miste. Jeg gikk foran og testet snøbroene, Ragnar bak meg med isskruer og snøanker, deretter Linn og til slutt Jon Birger.


Snøbakken opp mot skavlen på Castor [Fullversjon]

Et godt stykke opp i den siste snøbakken mot toppen traff vi på en bratt skavl som var litt over to meter høy. Under skavlen fant vi en ishule, der Ragnar, Linn og Jon Birger satte seg for å sikre meg mens jeg begynte isklatringen opp mot toppeggen. Avstanden opp til eggen var såpass lang at avstanden vi hadde mellom oss ikke var nok, så midtveis i den bratte, avblåste snøbakken satte jeg en standplass med isøksene og sikret Ragnar opp dit på prusiken

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. Deretter kunne jeg klatre videre mens han sikret Linn opp, og til slutt stod vi alle godt fornøyde og tittet opp langs den bratte eggen som førte rett til himmels . Etter litt nervøs snubling i stegjernene nådde vi endelig opp, og tok en velfortjent sjokolade mens vi nøt utsikten mot Matterhorn, Breithorn, Lyskamm og langt borte i horisonten - Mont Blanc, Europas nest høyeste topp.


Toppen av Castor [Fullversjon]


Jon Birger og Linn vei ned toppeggen til Castor [Fullversjon]

Vi hadde krysset en del tvilsomme snøbroer på veien opp, og var forberedt på å måtte finne en annen vei tilbake, rundt de største sprekkene . På veien traff vi imidlertid mange taulag som kunne fortelle at broene fremdeles holdt godt, og med noen korte blikk konstaterte vi at de også ville holde våre spinkle o-løperkropper.
Returen føltes som vanlig raskere enn turen fram, og vi nådde Klein Matterhorn rett før siste bane gikk ned.


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